Green Dream

A group of boys dance around a pile of shoes which they have pulled off earlier to feel the grass blades tickle their toes. The smog covered scene that serves as a backdrop for this rare green space is none other than Medieval Cairo, the heart of the city.

Al-Azhar park is one of the few green spaces in Cairo. Having been built on what has previously been a garbage dump, it is considered a miracle by those who know its history well. When the landscape artists Maher Stino and Laila El-Masry first visited the area which was being considered for the park, they were shocked and stated it would be a challenge. This is not surprising, as the place they were visiting had 5 centuries of waste piled on to it. The dump was bordered on one side by the 12th century Ayyubid wall, which itself was sinking in garbage. The author Maria Golia described it as a source of dust and flying fecal matter, and that the project was a massive, massive endeavor.

This was not enough to deter the Aga Khan IV and the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. The funds he provided for the development of the park exceeded $30 million. This was not only placed into the park itself, but the park was at the centre of it all. When the 12th century Ayyubid wall was exposed further on the western frontier, it was clear that it was in a devastating state. It was decided that the wall was to be restored as well, considering its historical value.

The people of Al-Darb Al-Ahmar, who lived in the poverty-stricken shadows of the Ayyubid wall were brought into the project as well. Not only did the project provide them with jobs, but the trust went further by trying to restore some of the buildings in Al-Darb Al-Ahmar in which the residents lived, which have fallen into a state of disrepair. This had a profound effect on the area and it’s residents, whom were previously suspicious of the Trust’s activities and intentions. The suspicion was garnered from previous attempts as demolishing their homes; but with time, it was clear they were benefiting from the trust’s contributions.

Having visited Al-Azhar park myself, I find it to be an oasis of greenery amidst the dreary brown and gray that swathes the rest of the city. The park has an entrance fee, in order to cover the costs of management and maintenance. This fee is minimal as to allow people from all strata to mingle in the park. However, I feel this has recently been overshadowed by the introduction of pricey cafes and restaurants in the park, such as Alain Le Notre and Studio Misr, which only a select few can afford.

All in all, it is worth a visit, for its breath-taking views, greenery and history.