River Fish

If there is one part of Cairo I am not familiar with as much as the others, it would have to be West-El-Balad, or Downtown. Perhaps Garden City as well. To me, they are both included in that same blob of Cairo stuffed with government buildings, nations' embassies, hotels, hostels, tourism offices, airline offices, countless restaurants, lots of bars, cinemas, cafes, mirror to mirror traffic, and, of course, tourists. As busy, exciting and important as it sounds, it's actually not that big a part of Cairo, but definitely one of the most crowded parts. In order for me to drive through the limitless traffic lights and one way twisted roads, and find legal parking spaces, I usually enlist a friend to guide me through it all. Last night, it was a surprising choice, as it was an Austrian friend, who, I am afraid to admit, knows more about Downtown than the three Egyptians that accompanied her that evening. As she barked out instant directions in the chaotic traffic, I complied with embarrassment, twisting and turning the steering wheel, heading for a boat ride which I never bothered to try before, believing it to be more of a trivial tourist attraction than a worthy outing, and that is the Felluca.

We parked in a side street near the Indonesian embassy, and walked our way to a small dock teaming with tourists and locals alike. On the waters, small wooden boats came and went, with sails made out of rags, dropping off and picking up people. We booked a boat to use, and waited for a small while. Soon we were swaying with the felluca, seated on cushions, chatting away and laughing in the Cairo evening. A friend remarked how peaceful it was to be so far away from Cairo, yet right in the middle of it. With the massive width of the Nile River sheltering us from the hustle and bustle of the city streets, we savored the summer breeze which is so hard to catch amidst the high buildings of Cairo. We pulled out drinks and snacks that we had brought along, and enjoyed a small meal on the boat.

After the pleasantly peaceful felluca ride, we decided to head out for sushi, and feeling adventurous, we agreed to have some at a place we haven't eaten at, or even heard of before, in Zamalek's Om Kalthoum Hotel, based on a cryptic recommendation. We parked close to the hotel, and asked about their sushi restaurant. After a few confused looks from the security man, the receptionist aided us in locating the place, which happened to be on the roof of the hotel. We headed up in the elevator to the 17th floor. As we exited the elevator, we were met by a surprising scene. One of my friend's claimed it reminded her of The Shining, with the blood red patterned wallpaper covering the walls, emitting a time-honored and vintage feel under the eerie glow of the old lamps. The atmosphere of the hotel definitely sparked my interest.

The 17th floor of the Om Kalthoum Hotel

The restaurant was directly on the roof, with small chairs and tables that looked quite worn. We were surprised to find it completely empty with not a single customer in sight, and only two waiters watching a small TV on the wall. We asked if this is where the restaurant is, and they confirmed it. We took a seat, and were given small menus with a small selection of rolls, nigri sushi, and other Japanese cuisine elements printed on it. I was surprised at how moderate the prices were compared to other sushi places in Cairo. The chef came to us to take our order personally. He was a young man, probably in his mid to late 20s with a relaxed demeanor about him. He was dressed in a white t-shirt, dark long shorts and sandals. I think he would pass more as a tourist than a chef at the hotel.

The order took a little while to arrive, but was definitely worth the wait. The selection was fabulous, and definitely felt fresh, with sparks of unexpected flavors, probably due to the chef's creativity in preparing the rolls and sushi. I personally felt like we have discovered a gold mine. There was no one else there yet the place was fabulous!


It all ended in a classic Cairo traffic jam on the way home. Such a bipolar city.